Sintra to Mafra

Sunday 28/8/22

Just after 7am we closed the door on the elegant Art Deco rooms of the hotel Saudade. The quiet streets now devoid of people and traffic. A lone elderly man stood on the corner where rejoined the Camino. he smiled and said a few words, we didn’t know what, but it was clear he was commenting on our packs. The old winding streets took us out of town and down a steep sided lush green valley. Small stone houses tucked amongst the prolific bamboo. These were not the fancy period villas of the town they were simple dwellings with a bit of well tended garden. 

The landscape changed as we progressed, the land becoming flatter. For a few ours we walked along quiet roads and tracks through semi industrial countryside passing a few pungent pig farms. We new what they were some time before we could see the long low buildings. Where the animals, no doubt, would be crammed into small stalls. It was completely quiet and not in a good way! I noticed the buildings were set amongst large open fields where it would be possible for the pigs to root around to their hearts content.

The land for miles was parched, with groups of pine dotted amongst the otherwise open fields, providing welcome shade. Groups of cars were parked on scrub beside the road but we did not see anyone, only the hear the rifle shots of the hunters who owned them. Later a vehicle passed us, windows down and the weather beaten red faced men smiled then turned to each other. I am guessing they found it a little amusing to see two women in their sixty’s hauling packs down a dusty track on a hot sunny day.

Later we sat on our mats out under a few shady pines and ate second breakfast of cake and a banana. The cake which was delicious was the main feature of the hotel breakfast box, the other being more pastry in the form of a tasty tuna pie.  We yearned for a tomato or a boiled egg and a piece of fresh fruit. 

It was only later that I discovered the insect bites on my arms and legs from that doughy repast. 

At the end of the long dusty track as we approached a tarmac, we could see six men at a roundabout. They were stopping traffic. Maybe checking insurance or licences or warning of a problem. As we neared a few of the cars did not stop but accelerated through. We were a little nervous when a man stopped us, he pulled out a grubby card to show us. Written in English was a request  money for the treatment of an injured firefighter? We wondered if this kind of collection was common or even legal.

In the village of Odrinhas we lingered at Cafe Sobrino, run by a tiny woman probably in her 80s, drinking expressos and sparkling water, whilst she watched a religious service on TV. We had passed several people earlier, decorating a wall and bushes with garlands of paper flowers and putting up a religious poster. It was clearly a special day but I never did find out see what. 

Christine went to use the facilities and I followed. As I sat down I opened my mouth to speak ‘ I know what you are going to say’ she said. I uttered my response ‘Have you seen the state of that toilet brush?’ She let out a loud guffaw and we both collapsed with suppressed laughter. Here we are on a journey of a lifetime having both had long professional careers, commenting on domestic niceties. 

The scenery began to improve as we made our way out of the village. We gradually climbed our way up a stoney path, past stone walls and enclosures reminiscent of Yorkshire, towards four windmills in various states of decay. The views from the hill tops were breathtaking and we were giddy on caffeine and the exertion.

Inevitably steep descents followed, which were very rocky, we were getting tired, so stepped slowly and carefully relying on our sticks for support. Turning an ankle or sliding down the path would be disastrous.

Another long steep climb into Mafra followed, with only the cooling breeze to be grateful for in the hot afternoon sun. Our reward was the glorious Palace de Mafra, a world Unesco heritage site, which we walked right past, as the bells were ringing, and on, the short distance, to our hotel.